Adjustable garment edge cutter and grader



Oct. 22, 1935.

J. SHOVLOWSKY ADJUSTABLE GARMENT EDGE CUTTER AND GRADER 2` sheets-sheet 1 Filed Feb. 14, 1955 Y E. l Rm l." OV To MiTw MN M, 92M J 9, 5 o? 5` n 6. l. J 0 MW d /L 6, 0. 3 4|.. 3

BY g z i ATTORNEY Oct. 22, 1935. JA sHovLowsKY gw ADJUSTABLE GARMENT EDGE CUTTER AND GRADER Filed Feb. 14, 1955 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 E- l lNvENToR 9' J usTYN SHovmwsKY MWA BY z 'Y I s ATTRNEYA l Patented Oct. 22, 1935 UNITED STATES ADJUSTABLE GARMENT EDGE CUTTER AND GRADER Justyn Shovlowsky, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Application February 14, 1935, Serial No. 6,528

17 Claims.

This invention relates to new and useful improvements in an adjustable edge cutter and grader.

It is an object of this invention to construct a device as mentioned which is adapted to cut the edges of superimposed layers of materials which are stitched together near the edges, in such a fashion that the material between the stitches are edges of different widths. The purpose of the invention may be understood by a brief explanation that with such a construction it is possible to fabricate clothes in which the seams are comparatively thin when compared with seams of old constructions. Should the superimposed layers have their edges coinciding, and the parts secured together by the conventional stitching and bending of these edges, the seams must be thick. But if the edges of the different layers are cut so that the outer layers may be stitched and bent while the inner layers remain flat, the seams will be comparatively thin.

The invention particularly contemplates the provision of a means for bending at angles to each other the edges of the superimposed layers of stitched together material-to facilitate cutting of the edges from the stitches to different widths. Once the edges are bent apart from each other it is possible to have one cutter cut one edge, and a second cutter cut the second edge. l

The invention also contemplates an arrangement of the bent edges as mentioned in the previous paragraph in which the edges are at right angles to each other so that a vertical and a horizontal cutter may be used to cut the respective edges.

The invention also proposed numerous mechanical features in the structure of the device that have valuable advantages.

Still further the invention proposes the construction of a device as mentioned which is simple and durable and which can be manufactured and sold at a reasonable cost.

For further comprehension of the invention, and of the objects and advantages thereof, reference will be had to the following description and accompanying drawings, and to the appended claims in which the various novel features are more particularly set forth.

In the accompanying drawings forming a ma` terial part of this disclosure:

Fig. 1 is a side elevational view of a device constructed according to this invention, the lower portion thereof being broken away and shown 5V in section.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of Fig. l.

Fig. 3 is a sectional view taken on the line 3-3 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary enlarged sectional 10 View taken on the line 6 4 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary sectional View taken on the line 5-5 of Fig. 4.

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary horizontal sectional view taken on the line 6--6 of Fig. 1. 15

Fig. 7 is a. fragmentary elevational view looking in the direction of the line I-l of Fig. 5.

Fig. 8 is a sectional view taken on the line 8-8 of Fig. 7.

Fig. 9 is a sectional view taken on the line 9-9 20 of Fig. 6.

Fig. 10 is a sectional view taken on the line I0-I0 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary sectional view taken on the line I I-I I of Fig. 5. 25 Fig. 12 is a fragmentary enlarged detailed view of a portion of Fig. 1.

Fig. 13 is a vertical sectional View of the seam cut by the device according to this invention.

Fig. 14 is a similar view to Fig. 13, illustrating 30 the folded and finished seam.

The device, according to this invention, includes a table I0 having a top opening II with a recess around the sides thereof upon which there is mounted a tray I2 and a cover plate I3. 35 The tray l2 has peripheral flanges with their edges resting in the recess, and the cover plate engages over the tray and is also disposed in the recess. Screws I4 serve to secure the cover plate and tray in a fixed position. 40

A machine body I5 is mounted upon the cover plate and is substantially of inverted U-shape having side arms I5a and IBD. The side arm I5 is integral with the horizontal portion of the body, while the side arm I5 is swivelled on the 45 horizontal portion of the body. The swivel connection is accomplished by the adjacent ends of the parts being formed with flanges I5c held rotatively together by an annular shaped member y I51. The extreme end of the side arm I5b is 50 chine is very similar in appearance and operation to a sewing machine. The material to be operated on is engaged in feeders under the side arm I5b and then as the machine operates, the material is moved forward and cut as desired.

In Fig. 4 the superimposed layers I8a and I8b are shown secured together with a line-of stitches I 9 so as to have free edge pieces I8c and |84. These edge pieces are engaged Vinto the machine .so as to be at right angles to each other. The edge piece I8c is cut by a disc-shaped cutter 20, and the edge piece I8r1 is out by a disc-shaped cutter 2|. The cover plate I3 is formed with an opening 22 into which the edge I8d is engaged into a feeding device as hereinafter further described. The cover plate I3 and opening 22 act as a forming element for bending the edges of the layers during the feeding thereof.

The cutter 20 isv mounted upon a shaft 23 rotatively supported-in the side arm I5b and conjas nected with driving means. More particularly,

' there is a gear 24 fixed on the shaft 23 and meshing with a gear 25 fixed upon a shaft provided with a bevel gear 26. The bevel gear 26 meshes with a gearV 21 upon a shaft 28 provided with a bevel gear 29 meshing with another bevel gear 30 on a shaft 3|extending through the horizontal portion of the body I5. The extended Vend of the shaft 3| is provided with a hand wheel 32 and a pulley 33. A belt 34 connects the pulley 33 with a pulley 35 upon a motor 36 mounted upon the table I0.

The cutter 20 is adapted to be adjusted trans- Y versely. It is rotatively supported in a casing-31 so as to move bodily therewith, and the casing mounted on the side arm I5b by the provision of a plurality of studs 38. These studs are fixed and project from the side arm l5b and merely Vslidably support the casing 31. A pointer 39 upon the casing 31 cooperates with a scale 4I) fixed upon the side arm I5b so that the position of the cutter 20 may be known. A bushing 4I is fixed upon the side of the casing 31 coaxial with the .shaft 23 and is engaged by a forked portion of a lever 42. The upper end of this lever is hingedly mounted on a lugr43. The'lower end is provided with a handle by which the lever may be Y conveniently moved.

A mechanism is provided for holding the lever 42 in'various adjusted positions. Y This Vmechamsm consists of a pivotally mounted latch member 44V engageable with the teeth 45 of a segmental member fixed upon the side arm |5b. The extended end of the shaft 23 is formed with a squared section which is square in transverse cross section; so that the blade 20 is slidable longitudinally upon the shaft 23 but is rotated by the shaft as the latter element rotates.

A feeding device is associated with the cutter 20 for feeding the cloth layer forwards. This feeding device consists Yof a shaft V46 mounted through the Vfinger I 5e and adapted to drive a pair of discs 41 having serrated peripheries. These peripheries are engageable with the cloth layer |86. The discs 41 are rotatively supported upon the casing 31, and are formed with squarecentral openings-engaging in a squared section of the shaft 46 so that rotations are transmitted, while the discs may be moved along bodily with adjustments of the casing 31. The shaft 46 is equipped Y with a Worm wheel 41 vmeshing with a worm 48 upon a shaft 49 rotative in a standard 50 upon Vthe finger |59. The shaft 49 has a bevel gear 5| meshing with a bevel gear 52 upon the shaft 23.

` formed Vwith a movable finger tip I5". The ma- The arrangement is such that the finger portion I 5e may pivot around the shaft 23 as an axis, and the gears 5I and 52 maintain their mesh positions. The body 31 is formed with a slot 31' so that the shaft 46 is free from the body and may 5 be moved away therefrom. A spring 54 is mounted upon the side arm I5b and acts upon the iinger tip I5e for normally urging the nger tip downwards so that the serrated discs 41 engage the cloth material I8. 10

A means is provided for moving the cutter 28 to an inoperative position. This means consists of a foot treadle 55 connected with a link 56 urged upwards by an expansion spring 51 beneath the foot lever. The link 56 is formed with rack teeth 15 58 at its tcp which mesh with a pinion 59 upon a shaft 68 extending through the horizontal portion of the body I5. This shaft is rotative in standards 6I in the body I5. A gearv 62 is mounted on the shaft 6G and meshes with an internal gearY 63 formed upon the flange of the side arm I5. The arrangement is such that when the footpedal 55 is depressed the side arm I5b will-be turned clockwise, when the device is viewed from the left-handV end in Figs. l and 2, and the side arm I5b will 25 be moved to an inoperative position, indicated by the dot and dash lines 64 in Fig. 3. The finger tip i5@ is adapted to turn about the shaft 23 as an axis, as permitted bythe resiliency of the spring 54 to allow the side arm I5 to be moved to 3o the inoperative position. Similarly, the linger l5@ will turn to allow the side arm I5b to be moved back to the operative position.

The bottom cutter 2 I is fixed on a vertical shaft t5 rotatively mounted. A bevel gear 66 upon the 35 shaft S5 meshes with a bevel gear 61 upon a shaft rotative in a block 69 which is adjustably mounted. A bevel gear 10 upon the `shaft 68 meshes with a bevelgear 1| rotatively upon the block 651 and fixed upon a shaft 12Y consisting of 9 telescopic sections. The arrangement is that rotations will be transmitted by the shaft 12, while at the same time the sections may be adjusted longitudinally, which permits the block 69 to be moved. A gear 13 is fixed upon the shaft 12 45 and meshes with a gear 14 upon .a driveshaft 15. This drive shaft is supported upon a tray I2 and is equipped with a bevel gear16 meshing with a bevel gear 11 upon a shaft 18 extending -through the side arm` I 5fi of the body I5. A gear 50 '59 upon the shaft 18 meshes with a gear 80 upon the shaft 3|. They arrangement is such that simultaneously with the driving of the shaft 3| which results in the driving of the top cutter 20, the bottom cutter 2| kwill also operate. '55 The block 63 is slidable upon vtracks 8| mounted upon the tray. An adjustment screw 82, `also mounted on the tray, is equipped with a handle 83 by which it may be operated. This adjustment screw threadediy engaged into the block so that 50 the block'may be adjusted. The shaft 65 is not directly mounted upon the tray I2 but is supported in standards 85 mounted uponthe block l 63. The arrangement is such that when the handle 83 is turned, the cutting blade 2| Vor a 5 substitute blade of slightly different size may be moved forwards and backwards and placed in effi'- cient cutting relation with respect to the discs 88 and head 33, and in all positions maintain its driving connection. y g 70 VA means is provided for feeding'the edge |48d of the cloth. This means consists of ay vertical shaft 8S supported in a standard 81 mounted uponV a tray if. A pair of discs 88 with serrated peripheries are mounted upon the shaft 86 and are 75 engaged by the head 89 of a spring pressed plunger. This plunger consists of a rod 98 slidably supported in a standard 9|. A Worm wheel 88a on the shaft 85 meshes with a worm 8eb on the drive shaft l5. An expansion spring 82 acts between the standard 9| and the plunger head 89 for urging said head against the sides of the discs 8B. An arrangement is provided for releasing the operative effect of the plunger head 99 when the pedal 55 is depressed. This arrangement consists in a slot 95 formed at an angle of substantially and upon the end of the rod 99. A pin 96 is mounted in the link 56 and works in the slo-t 85 in such .a fashion that when the pedal 55 is depressed, which moves the link 56 downwards, the rod 98 will be drawn so that the spring 92 is compressed and the head 89 is moved out of contact with the periphery of the discs 68.

The tray I 2 is formed with a bottom'opening 91 through which the edge pieces which are cut from the layer I8d may pass through into a removable tray 98 mounted upon the bottom of the tray |2. A pair of balile plates 91 guide the edge pieces into the tray 98. Fig. 11 shows a detail of the manner in which the finger 5e is swivelled upon the side arm |5b. More particularly, the shaft 23 has a reduced end 23HL engaging through an opening in the side arm Ib and into a block 99 mounted within a coaxial recess in the finger |5e. The arrangement is such that the finger l5e may move coaxially with the shaft 23.

A soft metal cloth guide |02 is mounted upon the tcp plate Within a recess as shown in Fig. 8 and is adapted tc hold the cloth which is being cut against the cutter 29. A screw |00 engages through a. slot lill in the guide |02 and holds it in xed positions. A scale is inscribed on the guide |82 and the material of the top plateY adjacent the guide for indicating the position of the guide. The guide i2 has a head H12a With an inclined top surface to properly hold the cloth in contact with the cutter 20. In Fig. 7 the dot and dash lines indicate the cutter 20.

The pedal 55 must be depressed' to move the side arm I5b and the plunger head 89 to its inoperative position. Then the layers I8 and I8b may be placed upon the table l0 and arranged so that the edge I8a is extended down through the opening 22 to be in a position to be clamped by the plunger head 89 and the feeder discs 88. The edge |8c is then placed in a position to be cut by the top cutter 28. If it is desired, the positions of the cutter may now be adjusted so that the pieces cut from the edges may be of a Width desired. 'I'he pedal 55 is then released which causes the side arm i5b to move to its operative position, and the plunger head 89 to its operative position. The motor 36 is now energized by the control of a suitable switch preferably a foot controlled switch. Rotations from the motor will be transmitted to the shaft 3| from which the rotations are transmitted to operate the cutters 28 and 2| and the feeders lll and 49. It is pointed out that the feeders will operate very slow because of the worm and gear reduction units, while the cutters will rotate at great speed.

In Fig. 13 two pairs of cut layers llla and I8b are illustrated with the layers |88 stitched together by a line of stitches I9. In Fig. 14 the seam is shown completed; it is made by first fold ing the layers and then stitching the two fabric materials 8a and the two lining materials Il!b together by a line of stitches |93. The thin seam construction is clearly illustrated. It is made possible by the cutting of the lining material I8b shorter than the outer fabric material H85.

While I have illustrated and described the preferred embodiment of my invention it is to be understood that I doqnot limit myself to the precise construction herein disclosed and the right is reserved to all changes and modifications coming within the scope of the invention as donned in the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by United States. Letters Patent is:

l. A device of the class described, comprising a forming element for bending at angles to each other the edges of super-imposed and stitched together layers of material, means for feeding said layers forward, a cutter for one of said edges, and another cutter for the other of said edges.

2. A device of the class described, comprising a forming element for bending at angles to each other the edges of super-imposed and stitched together layers of material, means for feeding said layers forward, a cutter for one of said edges and another cutter for the other of said edges, said forming element for bending said edges comprising a plate to hold one edge horizontal, and an opening in said plate through which the other edge may be engaged at right angles thereof.

3. A device of the class described, comprising a forming element for bending at angles to each other the edges of superimposed and stitched together layers of material, means for feeding said layers forward, a cutter for one of said edges, and another cutter for the other of said edges, said means. for feeding the layers comprising discs with serrated peripheries engaging the edges of said layers.

4. A device of the class described, comprising a table with a top opening closed with a cover plate, a tray mounted beneath said cover plate, a machine body mounted on the cover plate and being of substantially inverted U-shape, one arm of said U-shape being swivelly mounted, a drive through the upper portion of said machine body, means for feeding the top edge of superimposed and stitched together layers of material, said latter means being operated by said drive, means for feeding a bottom layer of said materials, a bottom cutter, and means for driving said bottom cutter.

5. A device of the class described, comprising a forming velement for bending at angles to each other the edges of superimposed and stitched t0- gether layers of material, means for feeding said layers forward, a cutter for one of said edges, and another cutter for the other of said edges, and means for adjusting the positions of said cutters to control the widths of the edges cut.

6. In a device of the class described, a table with a top opening, a cover plate closing said opening, a tray supported by its edges upon the edges of said opening, an inverted U-shaped machine body mounted on said cover plate and having one of its arms swivelled, means for bending at angles to each other the edges of superimposed and stitched together layers of sheet material moved beneath said swivelled arm, means for feeding said layers forward, a cutter for cutting one of said edges, and another cutter for cutting the other of said edges.

7. In a device of the class described e. table with a top opening, a cover plate closing said opening, a tray supported by itsV edges upon the edges of said opening, an inverted U-shaped machine body mounted. on said cover plate and having one of its arms swivelled, means for bending at angles to` each other the edges of superimposed and .stitched together layers of Vsheet material moved beneath said swivelled arm, means for feeding said layers forwards, a cutter for cutting one of said edges, and another cutter for cutting the other of said edges, said feeding means comprising discs with serrated .peripheries engaging the layers, and means for slowly turning said discs.

8. In a device of the class described, a table with a top opening, a cover plate closing said opening, a tray supported by its edges upon the edges of said opening, an inverted U-shaped machine body mounted onsaid cover plate and having one of its arms swivelled, means for bending :at angles to each other the edges of superimposed and stitched together layers of sheet material moved beneath said swivelled arm,'means for feeding said layers forwards, a cutter for cutting one of said edges'and another cutter'for cutting :the other of said edges, said feeding means comprising discs with serrated peripheries engaging the layers, and means associated with the driving means of the cutter for slowly turning said discs.

9. VA device oi the class described, comprising 1a table with a top opening closed with a cover plate, a tray mounted beneath said cover plate, a machine body mounted on the cover plate and being of substantially inverted U-shape, one arm of said U-shape being swivelly mounted, a drive rthrough the upper portion of said machine body,

means for feeding the top edge superimposed and stitched together layers of material, vsaid latter means being operated by said drive, means for feeding a bottom layer of said materials, a bottom cutter, and means for driving said bottom cutter, said top cutter being rotative Within a caslattermeans being operated by said drive, means for feeding a bottom layer of said materials, a

bottom cutter, and means for driving said bottom cutter, said top cutter being rotative within a casing, and means for holding the casing in various adjusted positions for controlling theoperative position of the cutter therein, said lattermentioned means including a pivoted lever, means for holding the lever in iixed positions, and a forked portion of the lever engaging a bushing of said casing.

11. A device of the class described, comprising a table with a top opening closed withV a cover plate, a tray mounted beneath said cover plate,

a machine body mounted on the cover plate and l beingV of substantially inverted U-shape, one arm of said U-shape being swivelly mounted, a drive through the' upper portion of said machine body,

means for feeding the material, said latter means being operated by said drive, means for feeding a bottom layer of said materials, abottom cutter,

land lmeans for driving said bottom cutter, a depressible foot pedal, a transmission from said foot pedal to turn said swivelled arm.

12. A device of the class described, comprising a table with a top opening closed with a cover plate, a tray mounted beneath said coverV plate, 5

cutter, a depressible foot pedal, a transmission l5 from said foot pedal to turn said swivelled arm, and including a pinion engaging an internal gear formed upon one end of the swivelled arm.

13. In a device of the class described, a horizontal bottom cutter, an adjustable block upon which said cutter is rotatively mounted, a transmission mounted upon said block for driving the cutter and Yterminating in a telescopic shaft, a

' stationary drive means connected with said telescopic shaft, said block being mounted on rails,

and a screw threadedly engaging the block for holding the block in various adjusted positions.

14. In a device of the class described, a horizontal bottom cutter rotative upon a block adjustably mounted, a transmission mounted upon said block for driving thecutter and terminating in a telescopic shaft connecting the drive means to a stationary drive means, said block being mounted on rails, and a screw threadedly engaging the block for holding the block in various ad- 85 justed positions, a bottom feeder said stationary drive being connected with a worm pinion and worm wheel associated withthe bottom feeder for the-operation thereof.

15. Adevice of the class described, comprising a table with a top opening closed with a cover plate, a tray mounted beneath said cover plate, a machine body mounted on the cover plate and being of substantially invertedU-shape, one arm of said U-shape being swivelly mounted, a drive through the upper portion oi said machine body, means for feeding the top edgev of superimposed and stitched together layers of material, said latter means being operated by said drive, means for feeding a bottom layer of said materials, a bottom cutter, and means for driving said bottom cutter, said bottom feeder including discs with serrated peripheries for engaging the edge of the material, a plunger head operative against the edges of said serrated discs for holding the cloth material, resilient means for urging said plunger into operative position, and a manually controlled means for moving theplunger to an idle position. 16. A device of the class4 described, comprising a table with a tcpropening closed with a cover plate, a tray mounted beneath said cover plate,

a machine body mounted on the cover plate and being of substantially inverted U-shape, one arm of said U-shape being swivelly mounted, a drive through the upper portion of said machine body,

means for feeding the top edge of'superimposed and stitched together layers Voi' material, said latter means being operated by said drive, means for feeding a bottom layer of said materials, a

bottom cutter,`and means-for driving said bottomlo cutter, said bottom feeder including discs with serrated peripheries for engaging the edge of the material, a plunger head operative against the edges of said serrated discs for holding the clothV material, resilient means for urging said plunger into operative position, and a, manually controlled means for moving the plunger to an idle position, including a depressible foot pedal connected with a link carrying a pin engaging into an inclined slot in a rod carrying said plunger head.

17. A device of the class described, comprising a forming element for bending at angles to each other the edges of superimposed and stitched together layers of material, means for feeding said layers forward, a cutter for one of said edges, and another cutter for the other of said edges, means for adjusting the positions of said cutters, and indicators for indicating the positions o! one of 5 the cutters.

JUSTYN SHOVLOWSKY. 

